All Italians know their grandmothers are the best cooks. Every nonna has her own recipe; in fact, every nonna has her own recipe for everything. Vicky Bennison’s new cookbook brings together the cooking of these women – the Pasta Grannies as she calls them. It features some of the women who have starred on her YouTube channel, which celebrates Italy’s best home cooks and their kitchen secrets.  For many years, Cremona was just one of those signs I saw on the motorway on the way to Milan, too busy worrying about the tailgating speedster behind me to consider visiting. But it’s definitely worth a detour: just outside, in a little village scattered along what feels like a Roman road to nowhere, lived Selvina Bertuzzi. She passed away in April 2019. I am most sorry she didn’t get to see her story in print. For this recipe, Selvina used to use a type of plain, unspiced sausage common in Lombardy called luganica. It’s made without links, so you’ll see it presented in a spiral. By submitting your email you are agreeing to Fairfax Media’s terms and conditions and privacy policy. Peel the potatoes and boil them whole or in halves. Leave the...